Boundless elegance and innovation above the clouds
Breguet’s Type XX timepieces have enjoyed cult status since the mid-1950s. The collection has significantly accompanied the development of aviation over the decades and continuously enriched it with a wide variety of models – whether as a precision instrument on the wrist of pilots or as a valued chronometer of passionate watch enthusiasts. In the summer of 2023, the Swiss-French luxury watchmaker presented its latest pilot watches from Type XX and Type 20, a completely redesigned line that is both innovative and contemporary, while at the same time incorporating numerous details from its rich history.
Breguet Pilot’s Watch Type XX and Type 20
The blueprint for all modern pilot watches
The designation Type 20 – also known as Type XX in the civilian version – refers to a specification for pilot chronographs defined by the French Ministry of Defense in the early 1950s. This description is considered to be the first blueprint for modern pilot watches. In particular, it includes a case diameter of around 38 millimeters wide and a maximum height of 14 millimeters, a screw-down case back, black dial with two registers at 3 and 9 o’clock that can count up to 30 minutes, Arabic numerals, luminescent material on hands and numerals, and a fully automatic reset – the so-called flyback function. Furthermore, a 12-hour bezel that can be rotated in both directions, accuracy of up to eight seconds per day, power reserve of at least 35 hours, and the ability to reliably operate the chronograph function at least 300 times.
The Type XX collection, which has enjoyed cult status since the mid-1950s, has accompanied the history of aviation.
Breguet
The design
Both the civilian version Type XX Chronograph 2067 and the military version Type 20 Chronograph 2057, with their bold-looking appearance, are in the tradition of classic aviation chronographs of the 1950s and 1960s. The civilian 2067’s display presents its 15-minute counter at 3, the 12-hour counter at 6, and the small seconds display at 9 o’clock. The 60-second counter from the center features graduations for the individual seconds and luminescent hour markers in 5-second increments.
The totalizers – that is, the additional small dials – are of different sizes to make the overall appearance of the watch more dynamic and also easier to read. The Arabic numerals, the hands and the triangle on the bezel have an ivory luminous coating. The date window is located at 4:30 o’clock.
On the military 2057, the 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock is larger than the small seconds display at 9 o’clock, and the 60-second counter from the center has graduations for the individual seconds and luminescent hour markers in 5-second increments. A date window is also included here at 4:30. The Arabic numerals, triangle on the bezel and hands are luminescent and in peppermint green color.
The case
The 42-millimeter stainless steel case of the Type XX version is equipped with a fluted, scaled and ambidextrous rotating bezel. The classic straight crown has three positions: 1 – neutral position for winding the watch, 2 – date correction, 3 – setting the time. The pusher at 2 o’clock starts and stops the chronograph functions, while pressing the pusher at 4 o’clock instantly resets the chronograph to zero via flyback function and immediately starts a new measurement.
The military sister watch also presents itself with a 42-millimeter stainless steel case and – just as it was supplied to the air forces in the past – is equipped without grading. The crown, made in the historical pear shape, has three positions: 1 – neutral for winding, 2 – for correcting the date, 3 – for setting the time. The pusher at 2 o’clock triggers the chronograph function, the one at 4 o’clock the instantaneous zeroing. The first pusher starts and stops the timekeeping, the second one resets the chronograph second and the minute counter to zero.
Through the sapphire crystal caseback of the 14.1 millimeter high case, not only the many details of the movement with its fascinating decorations can be admired, but also the impressive oscillating weight made of blackened gold. This has the shape of an airplane wing and is engraved with the Breguet logo.
Breguet Movement Type XX and Type 20
The movement
The civilian version of the luxury timepiece is powered by the new automatic Caliber 728, while the military version is powered by the new automatic Caliber 7281 – both developed in-house by Breguet. The movements combine robustness with innovation and are protected by several patents. They have all the features of a modern chronograph, such as the column wheel, the vertical clutch, the frequency of 5 Hertz and the innovative system for zeroing.
Their modern release and zero reset systems are designed to be operated clearly and precisely. For all pusher functions, the pressure on the movement remains even and balanced. To guarantee precision and stability of the movement even in case of possible shocks and impacts, the balance wheel was fixed with a continuous bridge.
The hairspring, escapement wheel as well as the pallet horns are made of silicon. Silicon is not only resistant to corrosion and wear, but also insensitive to magnetic fields, which significantly improves the accuracy of the chronograph. Both luxury watches have a power reserve of about 60 hours.
The Breguet Type XX Collection
Short and sweet
- Pilot watch: Breguet Type XX (2067 civilian) / Type 20 (2057 military)
- Case: stainless steel, ⌀ 42 millimeters, sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 10 bar
- Movement: automatic, caliber 728 / 7281, 60 hours power reserve
- Functions: Chronograph, flyback, date, small seconds, 15-minute and 12-hour counters / Chronograph, flyback, date, small seconds, 30-minute counters
- Strap: Calfskin and NATO fabric
- Price: 18,900 Euro
- Year: 2023
More information at breguet.com
