The ABC of wristwatches explained simply and clearly
Watches have fascinated people for centuries, be it through their precise mechanics, their elegant design or their innovative technology. Wristwatches in particular are not only practical timepieces, but also an expression of style, status and personal taste. From mechanical masterpieces to classic quartz watches and digital models, there is a multitude of technologies, terms and functions that characterize the world of watches.
Our watch lexicon provides a comprehensive overview of the most important terms from the world of pilot’s watches from A to Z. What is the difference between automatic and mechanical movements, what are complications and how does the tourbillon actually work? Questions upon questions. We provide the answers. Immerse yourself in the fascinating world of timepieces and discover the impressive variety of individual components that go into every wristwatch.
The most important terms from A to Z
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z
A
Analog display
The display of time using a set of hands on a dial. Usually there are three hands indicating the hours, minutes and seconds.
Annual calendar
A complication that automatically adjusts the date and month but, unlike the perpetual calendar, must be corrected manually in February.
Antimagnetic
Special materials used for the housing of a movement to make it resistant to damage caused by magnetic fields. The shielding of a watch from magnetic damage ensures the accuracy of a wristwatch.
Anti-reflective coating
A special coating on the watch glass that reduces reflections, making it easier to read. Often used on sapphire crystals.
Armature bridge
Holds the lever securely in position in the movement. Stabilizes the lever and ensures that it functions perfectly.
Assortment
The entirety of all parts of an escapement, consisting of anchor, escape wheel and balance. It forms the heart of every mechanical watch.
Automatic movement
A mechanical movement that uses the natural movements of the wearer’s wrist to create power. The rotor of an automatic movement winds a mainspring, which stores the energy used by the watch.
Automatic watch
A watch that winds itself using the movements of the wearers wrist. It does not require manual winding or batteries.
Automatic winding
The mechanism in an automatic watch in which a rotor tensions the mainspring by the movement of the wrist.
Aviator Watch
A watch specially developed for pilots. It is characterized by good readability, robustness and often a large crown.
A wristwatch is not just a timepiece, but an expression of style, precision and history.
B
Back system
A mechanism for regulating the period of oscillation of the balance wheel, which influences the accuracy of a mechanical watch. It enables fine adjustment of the rate.
Balance
A device used to check the balance of the balance wheel. It is used in watchmaking for precise adjustment.
Balance bridge
Holds the balance securely in the movement and ensures stability. It plays an important role in regulating the rate.
Balance spring system
The combination of the balance wheel and balance spring, which together form the oscillation system of a mechanical watch. It plays an integral role in the accuracy of a wristwatch.
Balance wheel
An oscillating component in a mechanical watch that determines the oscillation frequency and thus regulates the time. It is the “heart” of the watch.
Barrel
A cylindrical component that contains the mainspring. It stores the energy generated when the watch is wound.
Barrel bridge
Holds the barrel in position within the movement. It provides stability and protects the mechanism.
Bearing
Parts that support the rotating or sliding components of the movement. They reduce friction and contribute to the longevity of the watch.
Bearing jewels
Small gemstones, usually made of ruby, used in mechanical watches to minimize friction. They extend the service life of the moving parts.
Beryllium
A light and strong metal that is often used in the manufacture of balance springs. It is anti-magnetic and corrosion-resistant.
Beveling
Finishing technique in which the edges of movement components are beveled and polished. Only used on high-quality watches due to the high cost involved.
Bezel
The outer ring around the dial that frames the watch glass. In pilot’s watches, the bezel can usually be rotated to measure flight times.
Big Date
A large date display shown on two disks. It makes the date easier to read.
Bimetallic screw balance
A balance wheel made of two different metals to compensate for temperature differences. This keeps the watch more precise.
Blueing
A process in which metals are given a blue color by heating. It is often used on screws and hands to increase corrosion resistance.
Breguet hairspring
A special form of balance spring that enables a more even oscillation. It ensures the accuracy of the watch.
Bridge
A component that holds parts of the movement, such as the gear train or the balance wheel, in position. Bridges increase the stability of the movement.
Bridge movement
A movement that is stabilized by several bridges. It ensures greater robustness and precision of the mechanism.
C
Cabochon
A smooth, polished decoration, usually on the crown. It often consists of precious stones such as sapphire or onyx.
Calendar watch
A watch that displays the date as well as the time. Calendar watches can vary from simple arrangements, right through to complex-looking perpetual calendars.
Caliber
The designation for a specific movement model, often given a number or name. The Caliber name often refers to the movement size, i.e. the diameter of the movement.
Cambered glass
Slightly curved watch glass that reduces optical distortion and gives the case a classic design.
Cap jewel
A small jewel that minimizes friction on the axis of a rotating part, such as the balance wheel. It increases the longevity and accuracy of the watch.
Cap jewel plate
A plate that holds the cap jewel in position. It serves to stabilize and reduce wear.
Case
The outer part of the watch that protects the movement. It can be made of various materials such as stainless steel, gold or titanium.
Center punch bearing
A small bearing that supports the axis of gears. It reduces friction and ensures a longer service life for the movement.
Central second hand
A second hand that is positioned centrally on the axis of the hour and minute hands. Often found on chronographs and modern watches.
Chaton
A setting-like bearing for jewels that reduces friction. It is often made of precious metals and is also used for decoration.
Chronograph
A watch with an integrated stopwatch function. It enables time intervals to be measured in addition to the normal time display.
Chronometer
A particularly precise watch that has been tested and certified for accuracy by an official testing body, such as the COSC.
Cock
A component that fixes and stabilizes parts of the movement, such as the escapement wheel or the balance wheel. In contrast to the bridge, it is only fastened with a screw.
Complication
Additional functions of a watch that go beyond simply displaying the time. Examples include chronographs, calendars, moon phases and repeaters.
COSC
A Swiss institution (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) that tests and certifies mechanical watches for their precision. Only specifically tested watches receive the official chronometer certificate.
Crown
A small wheel on the side of the case that is used to wind the watch and set the time. In many watches, the crown is screwed down to increase water resistance.
Crown wheel
Part of the winding mechanism of a watch. It transmits the rotation of the crown to the winding stem and the mainspring.
A watch doesn’t just tell the time, it tells the story of its development and the craftsmanship that created it.
D
Date display
Displays the current date, usually in a window on the dial. It can be simple or with additional functions such as a day and month display.
Day of the week display
A complication that displays the current day of the week. Often combined with a date display.
Dial
The front of a watch on which the time is displayed. It can be designed with numbers, indices or other markings.
Digital display
Shows the time in digits, usually on an LCD or LED display. Common in quartz and smartwatches.
Digital watch
A watch that displays the time electronically in digits. It is usually battery-operated and very precise.
Double-hand chronograph
A chronograph with two superimposed second hands, also known as a “rattrapante”. It allows intermediate times to be measured.
Double-sided watch
A watch with two dials that can display the time on both sides of the case. Often used for different time zones.
Dry-keeping technique
A technique that ensures that moisture is kept away from the watch in order to prevent rust formation and to guarantee the longevity and functionality of the watch.
E
Ébauche
Refers to a raw movement, i.e. an unfinished movement that is still being worked on and refined. It is often used by manufacturers as a base by which they can modify.
Eccentric regulating screw
A screw used for fine adjustment of the movement. It enables precise regulation of the rate accuracy.
Eight-day movement
A mechanical movement that runs for eight days after being wound once. Mainly featuring in luxury watches.
Enamel
A laborious, time consuming technique applied to the surface of a dial, giving it a glossy smooth effect that is particularly resistant to wear and tear, scratches and dust.
Escapement
The mechanism that transfers the energy of the mainspring barrel to the balance wheel and thus drives the movement in regular steps. It determines the accuracy of the watch.
Escapement wheel
The wheel in the escapement system which, in conjunction with the lever, transfers the energy to the balance wheel. It plays a central role in regulating the rate.
Escapement wheel bridge
The bridge that holds the escapement wheel in position within the movement. It ensures stability and precise functioning.
F
Fine adjustment
A process by which the accuracy of the watch can be set very precisely. Often found on high-quality watches.
Fine regulator
Similar to the fine adjustment, the fine regulator is a device that maintains the accurate timekeeping of a watch by controlling the beat rate, influencing the frequency of the balance oscillations.
Flyback
A function that immediately resets the chronograph to zero with a single press of the pusher and immediately starts a new measurement process. This saves time, especially with quick, consecutive measurements.
Flying bearing
A bearing in which a component is held at one end only, without additional bridges. It is often used for tourbillons.
Frequency
The number of oscillations of the balance wheel per hour, measured in Hertz (Hz). The higher the frequency, the more precise the watch.
Full calendar watch
A watch that displays the day, date and month, but does not take into account leap years or shorter months. It must be adjusted manually on a regular basis.
Fusee
A component in the mainspring barrel of a watch that enables an even power output. It is often used in high-quality watches to improve rate accuracy.
G
Gear train
All the gears in the movement that transfer energy from the barrel to the hands. It is the core system that controls the rate of the watch.
Gear train bridge
A bridge in the movement that fixes and stabilizes the gear train. It ensures that the gear wheels work smoothly.
Gear wheel
A cogwheel in the chronograph mechanism that controls the start, stop and reset functions. It is considered to be more precise and robust than splitter gears.
Gemstones
Bearing jewels made of synthetic ruby or sapphire that minimize friction in a movement. They increase the service life of the movement.
Geneva seal
A seal of quality that is only awarded to watches that are manufactured in the Geneva region and meet strict criteria regarding workmanship and quality.
Geneva stripes
Decorative stripes engraved on the bridges and plates of the movement. They are a sign of craftsmanship and high quality.
Glass back
A transparent case back, often made of sapphire crystal, which provides a view of the movement. Particularly popular with mechanical watches to show off the mechanics.
Glasses
The material that protects the dial. It can be made of mineral glass, sapphire crystal or plastic and can be treated in different ways, for example with an anti-reflective coating.
GMT
A complication that displays a second time zone. It is often used by travelers to keep track of home and local time.
Guilloche
A fine, mechanical pattern that is usually applied to the dial or case. It gives the watch a special aesthetic.
The world of watches is a universe of mechanics, craftsmanship and timeless design.
H
Hairspring
Also known as the balance spring, it is a small, thin metal spring that forms the heart of the escapement system. It regulates the rate of the watch through its rhythmic oscillations.
Hands
The time display instruments on the dial that show the hours, minutes and seconds. They vary in shape and style depending on the type of watch.
Hand-wound watch
A watch whose spring is wound by hand via the crown. It must be wound regularly in order to run.
Hinged case
A case in which the lid can be opened via a hinge. It was often used on pocket watches and is now a rare detail on wristwatches.
I
Incabloc
A shock protection system for mechanical watches. It protects sensitive parts of the movement, such as the balance wheel from damage caused by shocks.
Isochronism
The property that a watch runs with the same accuracy regardless of the winding condition. It ensures that a watch remains accurate throughout its entire power reserve.
J
Jewels
Small synthetic rubies or sapphires that serve as bearings in mechanical watches. They reduce friction and contribute to the accuracy of the watch.
L
Ladies’ watch
A watch specially designed for women. They are often smaller and more delicate than men’s watches and may contain decorative elements.
Leather strap
A strap made of leather that gives a watch a classic and elegant look. It is comfortable to wear, but not as robust as a metal bracelet.
LED display
A display that shows the time using light-emitting diodes (LEDs). It is often used in digital watches.
Lever
Part of the escapement system that transmits the oscillations of the balance wheel to the gear train of the movement. It is used for power transmission.
Lever escapement
One of the most widely used escapement systems in mechanical watches. It ensures that the movement moves precisely and evenly.
Lever wheel
The wheel that interacts with the anchor in the escapement. It transmits the kinetic energy to the lever and thus to the balance wheel.
Limited edition
A watch that is produced in limited numbers. It is often particularly exclusive and coveted by collectors.
Limit pins
Small pins that control and limit the movement of the balance spring. They help to regulate the amplitude of the oscillation.
Line
A historical measure of the size of a movement used in Switzerland and France. 1 line corresponds to approximately 2.256 mm.
Linkage
A control mechanism in chronographs that ensures that the pushers work in the correct sequence. It controls the stop and reset operations.
Locking cone spring
A small spring in the winding mechanism that prevents the recoil of the mainspring. It ensures that the energy remains stored.
Lugs
The connecting elements between the watch case and the bracelet. They determine the fit and design of the bracelet.
Lunation
The period from one new moon to the next. Some watches with a moon phase display show this period.
A watch not only shows the time, it tells the story of its development and craftsmanship.
M
Magnetism
A force exerted onto a watch when exposed to magnetic fields. Magnetism can negatively impact the performance of a mechanical watch, causing it to run less accurately.
Mainspring
A spiral spring in the mainspring barrel that is tensioned when the watch is wound. It stores the energy that drives the movement.
Manufacture
The manufacturing of a brand’s own movement from the ground up, including hairsprings, gears and screws. Such watches are considered to be of particularly high quality.
Mechanical watch
A watch that is driven by a mechanical movement without the use of electricity. It requires regular winding or has an automatic winding mechanism.
Military watches
Watches that have been specially developed for use in the military. They are characterized by robustness, good readability and often feature special functions, such as a compass or luminescent night hands.
Mineral watch glass
A special type of mineral glass used for watches. It is more shatterproof and resistant than conventional glass.
Minute wheel
A gear wheel in the movement that controls the minute display. It is located between the hour wheel and the second wheel.
Molded movement
A movement that is specially adapted to the shape of the case. In contrast to round movements, it has a special shape, such as rectangular or tonneau-shaped.
Moon phase display
A complication that displays the current moon phase on the dial. It shows the cycle of the moon from new moon to full moon.
Movement
The mechanism that drives a watch and controls all its functions. There are mechanical and quartz-controlled movements.
Movement plate
The base plate on which all parts of the movement are mounted. It forms the foundation of the entire mechanism.
N
Nickel-free
An indication that a watch or bracelet does not contain nickel. Particularly important for people with nickel allergies.
Nivaflex
A special cobalt-based alloy used for mainsprings in mechanical watches. It is particularly elastic, durable and corrosion-resistant.
O
Observation watch
A precise and easy-to-read watch that was originally used by naval or air force officers. It is characterized by easy handling and high accuracy.
Orientation hand
An additional hand that indicates a specific event or time. Often used on sports and diving watches to mark time intervals.
P
Pallets
Part of the anchor in the escapement system of a watch that interacts with the escape wheel. They transfer the energy from the escape wheel to the balance wheel.
Pedigree extract
An official document from the manufacturer that confirms the authenticity and history of a watch. It is often issued for luxury watches and contains detailed information about the watch.
Perpetual calendar
A complication that automatically distinguishes between short and long months and leap years. The watch does not need to be adjusted manually until the year 2100.
Pillar
Component in the movement that connects and stabilizes different levels of the movement. Usually only used in cheap wristwatches.
Pilot’s watch
A watch that has been specially developed for the needs of pilots. It is characterized by a large, easy-to-read display and a robust construction.
Pinion
A small cogwheel in the movement that serves as a link between larger cogwheels. It ensures the transmission of power in the gear train.
Pin lever escapement
A simpler and less precise escapement in which the lever is replaced by steel pins. It is usually used in simpler or older watches.
Piston tooth
A special type of gear wheel used in mechanical movements. It improves the efficiency and accuracy of power transmission.
Pivot
The axes of the gears in the movement that rotate in bearings. They must be precisely manufactured to ensure smooth movement.
Plate
The main base of the movement on which all other parts are mounted. It is the central supporting element of a mechanical watch.
Pointer movement
The system of gears that moves the hands of the watch. It translates the energy of the movement into the display of the time.
Position error
The change in the accuracy of a watch in different positions. High-quality watches are regulated in several positions to minimize this.
Power reserve
The time a mechanical watch runs after being fully wound before it stops. A power reserve indicator shows how much power is left.
Pressure resistance
Indicates how much pressure the watch case can withstand, usually expressed in bar or meters of water resistance. Particularly important for diving watches.
Pusher
Buttons on the side of the watch that control additional functions such as the stopwatch or the date. They are used particularly on chronographs.
From the crown to the dial: every pilot’s watch is a wonderful masterpiece of engineering.
Q
Quartz watch
A watch that is powered by a quartz crystal that oscillates using a battery. Quartz watches are extremely precise and require little maintenance.
Quick correction
A function that allows the date to be set quickly and independently of the time. Particularly practical for watches with calendar complications.
R
Radio-controlled watch
A watch that receives the time via radio signals from a time server. It is extremely accurate as it is automatically synchronized with atomic clocks.
Rally watch
A watch that has been specially developed for motorsport events. It often contains chronograph functions and a tachymeter scale for measuring speed based on distance.
Ratchet wheel
A wheel in the winding mechanism that tensions the mainspring during winding and allows energy to flow into the movement. It is part of the mainspring barrel.
Rate accuracy
The precision with which a watch displays the time. Chronometers are particularly known for their high rate accuracy.
Rate deviation
The difference between the actual and displayed time of a watch. Measured in seconds per day.
Rate duration
The amount of time a watch runs after being fully wound before it has to be wound again. In automatic movements, this depends on the power reserve.
Rattrapante
Also known as a split-seconds hand, a chronograph complication with an additional second hand that can be stopped independently of the first.
Reglage
The process of fine-tuning a movement to improve its accuracy. It includes the adjustment of the balance and escapement.
Regulator arm
A small lever in the regulator system that influences the length of the balance spring and thus the rate accuracy. It is used to regulate the watch.
Repetition
A watch with an acoustic time display that indicates the hours, quarter hours and minutes by beating at the touch of a button. Particularly found in complicated watches.
Replicas
A watch heavily inspired by another design, often at a fraction of the price of the original. It is usually not an exact copy, but rather an homage of the original design.
Retrograde display
A complication in which the hand does not move in a circle, but jumps back to the beginning when it reaches the end point. Often used for date or weekday displays.
Rhodium plating
A process in which watch parts are coated with a layer of rhodium. It serves as protection against corrosion and gives the movement a silvery sheen.
Rotor
A semi-circular weight in an automatic watch that oscillates with the movement of the wearer and thus automatically winds the watch.
S
Sapphire crystal
An extremely hard and scratch-resistant glass that is often used in high-quality watches. It offers excellent clarity and is more durable than mineral glass.
Satin finishing
A process in which fine lines or patterns are applied to the metal case of a watch. It gives the watch a matte finish and reduces fingerprints.
Sealing ring
A rubber ring that seals the case against water and dust. Particularly important for waterproof watches.
Seconds display
Indicates the seconds, either by means of a central seconds hand or a small sub-dial. It complements the hour and minute display.
Seconds wheel
A cogwheel in the gear train that is responsible for displaying the seconds. It connects the gear train to the escapement via the escape wheel.
Shock protection
A system that protects the movement from damage caused by shock or impact. It increases the longevity of the watch, especially in mechanical models.
Silicone strap
A flexible, water-resistant strap made of silicone. It is a popular choice for sports watches or diving watches thanks to its lightweight, quick-drying and robust properties.
Skeletonization
The artful exposure of parts of the movement that allow a view of the mechanics. Skeletonization requires a high level of craftsmanship and is a sign of luxury.
Slave hand
An additional second hand in a chronograph that can be stopped independently of the main hand. Enables split times to be measured.
Slide rule scale
A scale on the dial or bezel that allows mathematical calculations to be performed. Particularly useful in pilot’s watches.
Solar watch
A watch that draws its energy from sunlight or artificial light. It does not require a battery and can run autonomously for a very long time.
Solid bracelet
A bracelet made of solid metal, often stainless steel or gold. It is particularly robust and durable.
Sports watch
A watch that has been specially developed for sporting activities, often with functions such as a stopwatch, tachymeter or water resistance. It is characterized by its robustness and functionality.
Spring bar
A small metal bar that attaches the bracelet to the watch case. It is spring-loaded so that the strap can be easily replaced.
Spring barrel
Synonym for spring drum. It contains the mainspring and ensures that the wound energy is transferred evenly to the movement.
Stainless steel case
A watch case made of stainless steel that is resistant and durable. It is widely used due to its corrosion resistance.
Steel bracelet
A bracelet made of stainless steel, which is known for its durability and resistance. It is often used for sports and diving watches, and sometimes also for pilot’s watches.
Stop seconds
A function that stops the second hand when the crown is pulled out in order to set the time precisely.
Strap
The strap used to attach the watch to the wrist. Can be made of leather, metal, textile or other materials.
Sub-dial
A small, additional dial on the main display that often shows useful functions like a small running seconds display, power reserve indicator, or a chronograph function.
Swan-neck fine regulator
A high-precision mechanism for regulating the rate accuracy in which a screw finely adjusts the balance spring via a swan-neck lever. Often found in luxury watches.
A good watch accompanies us through time – precise, reliable and with an unmistakable character.
T
Tachymeter scale
A scale used on chronographs to calculate the speed based on the measured time over a known distance. Often found on motorsport watches.
Tegiment surface
A special surface hardening developed by the German brand Sinn. It significantly increases the scratch resistance of a watch case.
Third wheel
A gear wheel in the gear train that is located between the second wheel and the minute wheel. It is often one of the few wheels that rotate clockwise on the movement side.
Time zone
A complication that makes it possible to display several time zones simultaneously. Particularly common in world time watches and GMT watches.
Titanium case
A case made of titanium, a particularly light, robust and corrosion-resistant metal. A popular material used in sports and diving watches.
Totalizers
Small dials on a chronograph that display the stopped minutes, seconds or hours. They enable detailed time measurement.
Tourbillon
A complex device that houses the escapement in a rotating cage to minimize the effects of gravity. It increases rate accuracy and is considered a symbol of the highest art of watchmaking.
V
Vacuum-proof
A characteristic of watches that must function in vacuum environments or extremely low pressure conditions. Often found in pilot’s watches.
W
Watch glass
The protective glass that covers the dial. It can be made of sapphire crystal, mineral glass or plastic.
Watch winder
A device that gently winds an automatic watch by mechanically rotating it whilst removed from the wrist. It keeps the watch running and prevents it from stopping.
Water resistance
A rating that indicates how deep a watch can be submerged and worn under water without damage occurring to its gaskets and seals. Usually specified in meters or bar.
Winding stem
Used to wind the movement and establishe a connection between the crown and the mainspring barrel. It is also often used to set the time.
World time watch
A watch that displays several time zones simultaneously. Particularly useful for pilots, frequent travelers or business people who work in different time zones.
Z
Zero count alarm
A function that triggers an alarm when a certain point is reached. Usually found on digital watches.
Zero setting
A mechanism by which the hands of a watch – usually a chronograph – are reset to their initial position. Important for precise stop time measurements.
More about pilot’s watches
A comprehensive overview of manufacturers of pilot’s watches with mechanical and digital movements.
